Saito's New Engine: FG-90R3
#201
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Southern Minnesota USA
Posts: 225
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24x10 prop will let the 84 rev, and with my 90 a 2 cell lipo made 200 more rpm over the life battery, valve adjustment was a big factor with mine after a gallon of fuel on the test stand. there are more masterfull here than i though.
#202
My Feedback: (3)
@ Jimkron
Thats strange, you should see a change in revs at the top with an adjustment on the high needle.
Id reset the needles per the manual and make sure your fuel oil ratio is correct just to be safe. Also make sure your not running too hot per cylinder, 200F is getting hot.
You can also check your valve clearances so they are shutting completely because your peak rpm is low.
Try that then last resort is taking the carb off to clear out the ports and make sure there's no blockage.
Thats strange, you should see a change in revs at the top with an adjustment on the high needle.
Id reset the needles per the manual and make sure your fuel oil ratio is correct just to be safe. Also make sure your not running too hot per cylinder, 200F is getting hot.
You can also check your valve clearances so they are shutting completely because your peak rpm is low.
Try that then last resort is taking the carb off to clear out the ports and make sure there's no blockage.
#203
Thanks Chris. I flushed out the main needle, cleaned the spark plugs and regapped to .7. They were all a little different. I've been running a pressure line with an in-line filter off the Keleo exhaust. Its's filled up with black oil and crap. Do you think the pressure line is necessary?
If that doesn't work, I'll try taking the carb off.
Thanks again,
jim
If that doesn't work, I'll try taking the carb off.
Thanks again,
jim
#204
My Feedback: (3)
Ok, no I don't run the pressure line on my plane. I set the fuel tank position exactly at the level required by the manual. Yes there could be some effect by a blocked pressure line since you tuned the carb based on that set up. If you reset the carb and eliminate that pressure line you will have a different and hopefully better result.
#213
I am unfortunately on my third Cowl. The first one fit close enough that I filed the fins off of the rocker covers on one cylinder.
The second I filed another. The third I took the time to add shims to the cowl mounts.
There might be 1mm clearance all around.
Awesome plane and engine combination!
#216
#217
Thank you. I didn't want to invest in one only to have it crack and fail. The smaller fg60 seems to have seen a lot of problems in that area regardless of how careful some were with breaking in.
Does the fg90 tune easier? Does it hold it's tuning better? Without doing the Ray English mods( including changing carbs) to the fg 60...seems ppl had constant pain keeping that motor tuned.
If I buy one of these, I don't want to have to keep replacing cylinders or having issues tuning. Of course there will be upkeep and maintenance to do. ..but looking for reliability.
Does the fg90 tune easier? Does it hold it's tuning better? Without doing the Ray English mods( including changing carbs) to the fg 60...seems ppl had constant pain keeping that motor tuned.
If I buy one of these, I don't want to have to keep replacing cylinders or having issues tuning. Of course there will be upkeep and maintenance to do. ..but looking for reliability.
#218
Thank you. I didn't want to invest in one only to have it crack and fail. The smaller fg60 seems to have seen a lot of problems in that area regardless of how careful some were with breaking in.
Does the fg90 tune easier? Does it hold it's tuning better? Without doing the Ray English mods( including changing carbs) to the fg 60...seems ppl had constant pain keeping that motor tuned.
If I buy one of these, I don't want to have to keep replacing cylinders or having issues tuning. Of course there will be upkeep and maintenance to do. ..but looking for reliability.
Does the fg90 tune easier? Does it hold it's tuning better? Without doing the Ray English mods( including changing carbs) to the fg 60...seems ppl had constant pain keeping that motor tuned.
If I buy one of these, I don't want to have to keep replacing cylinders or having issues tuning. Of course there will be upkeep and maintenance to do. ..but looking for reliability.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=esGaEm9GUhk
And now the instructions are on top of the motor when you open the box. I took it a step further and ran 2 gallons on the bench and now its a screaming machine.
This is after the final brake in period. I had a 24x12 on the motor
#220
Hello,
Located near La Rochelle, west france, I own a little Company named "MODELISME MICROMOTEUS SERVICE" since 5 years now, and I make a lot "DCi" upgrades on SAITO 60 84 & 90 Radials since several months with full success for European Customers.
The upgrade is named "DCi" for "Direct Crankcase intake" as MOKI and SEIDEL engine by machining the OEM rear intake covers.
- All the internal parts as master & slave rods, ball bearings and bottom pistons are now better lubricated and cooled
- All the 3 cylinders are feed with the same mixture and work at quite same temperature
- the crankcase temperature at full power is 30° Celcius lower than the OEM configuration.
However, I discover that the WALBRO WYD pop-off pressure is NEVER set by the Manufacturer and could be read above 36 Psi !!!!
With a correct pop-off pressure set to 15 psi those engines run much better.
More informations and photos (where you can see my guys The Cow and The Seagull) on my professional FaceBook webpage and
my YouTube channel : https://www.youtube.com/user/eulboyington
Located near La Rochelle, west france, I own a little Company named "MODELISME MICROMOTEUS SERVICE" since 5 years now, and I make a lot "DCi" upgrades on SAITO 60 84 & 90 Radials since several months with full success for European Customers.
The upgrade is named "DCi" for "Direct Crankcase intake" as MOKI and SEIDEL engine by machining the OEM rear intake covers.
- All the internal parts as master & slave rods, ball bearings and bottom pistons are now better lubricated and cooled
- All the 3 cylinders are feed with the same mixture and work at quite same temperature
- the crankcase temperature at full power is 30° Celcius lower than the OEM configuration.
However, I discover that the WALBRO WYD pop-off pressure is NEVER set by the Manufacturer and could be read above 36 Psi !!!!
With a correct pop-off pressure set to 15 psi those engines run much better.
More informations and photos (where you can see my guys The Cow and The Seagull) on my professional FaceBook webpage and
my YouTube channel : https://www.youtube.com/user/eulboyington
Last edited by Eulboyington; 02-11-2018 at 06:03 AM. Reason: adress modification
#221
My Feedback: (9)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: kuwait, KUWAIT
Posts: 58
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hello everyone
just start to build my TF FW190 with 90r3
so i need advice for oil type + best 3B prop I like for speed
i have redline oil is it work?
also 23X12 3b prop is it work ?
Regards
just start to build my TF FW190 with 90r3
so i need advice for oil type + best 3B prop I like for speed
i have redline oil is it work?
also 23X12 3b prop is it work ?
Regards
#223
My Feedback: (3)
The engine should be able to run that prop and a little more. I highly recommend a telemetry module to send you in flight RPM readings so you can tune the engine better. In flight the prop will unload and engine RPM will rise. If you exceed 7000RPM for a while you risk seizing the engine. I had this happen early on because the engine has more power than the factory recommended prop can absorb, so blew the engine. Then I added telemetry and went up to a big prop.
I have a modified FG84 and in flight with a 24x14 Xoar prop it turns 7400 with ease. Im going to reprop it to a 3B 23x12 or an adjustable pitch Solo 3B 24 inch prop and tune it by in flight RPM data.
Oil Im using Klotz Technoplate, so far the best oil Ive run in all my engines. Ive tried all kinds and returned to this. Cleanest running and my engines run hard and powerful. Just take the time to run them in and don't over heat them when breaking in.
The FG90 will not fit in the TF cowl, you probably noticed by now. I had to modify a H9 cowl and the firewall. Mine has zero x zero thrust compensation, flies great, no bad habits.
Awesome plane, crowd pleaser, your going to have fun
I have a modified FG84 and in flight with a 24x14 Xoar prop it turns 7400 with ease. Im going to reprop it to a 3B 23x12 or an adjustable pitch Solo 3B 24 inch prop and tune it by in flight RPM data.
Oil Im using Klotz Technoplate, so far the best oil Ive run in all my engines. Ive tried all kinds and returned to this. Cleanest running and my engines run hard and powerful. Just take the time to run them in and don't over heat them when breaking in.
The FG90 will not fit in the TF cowl, you probably noticed by now. I had to modify a H9 cowl and the firewall. Mine has zero x zero thrust compensation, flies great, no bad habits.
Awesome plane, crowd pleaser, your going to have fun
#224
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: new port richey,
FL
Posts: 377
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Hello all you fellow Saito Fg90r3. Help ! Help ! Help. I am a proud owner of this engine have about 15 flights on it now
love it but of lately needle valve issues are getting me frustrated. I broke it in as Saito recommended and it was running
great, although it always seemed to hesitate and stumble from idle to full throttle on takeoff so I decided to readjust
the needles.
In doing so now after takeoff I reduce power to 1/2 to 3/4 throttle good speed for a 1/5scale Zaroli T-6 and engine starts to
miss fire and stumble, runs great at full throttle and idle but acts up in mid range only !
My carb settings have been set at 5 - turns H needle 4-1/2 L needle. It has run ok for 14 flights and on the last flight it began so I landed immediately and reset needles H to 4-1/2 and L to 5- turns no help. Did not get better.
So I went to on line forums and to Saito instructions On line, Horizon instructions on line, spoke to rep from Horizon
and have become dizzy with all the conflicting needle valve settings.
From factory settings of H-3 turns out L -4-1/2 turns out to engine forums saying H- 6 turns out and L 5-1/2 turns out.
My problem may not be related to carb needle settings but in my quest for a good setting for this engine I can't believe
that range of settings can be suitable ! Any thoughts or suggestions.
I have been an r-c flyer since 1978 I consider myself an advanced flyer and builder own G62's G38's DA85's and have flown In the past with Saito 91 four cycle engines all with no problems. While this 90cc engine has flown my T-6 without incident I can't seem to get a reliable transition.
Any help with reliable carb settings other than the mentioned setting ranging From H -,3 turns to H - 6 turns might help.
I am relying on what has been a good reliable carb setting. And why such a wide setting range from other sources.
Thanks Joe
love it but of lately needle valve issues are getting me frustrated. I broke it in as Saito recommended and it was running
great, although it always seemed to hesitate and stumble from idle to full throttle on takeoff so I decided to readjust
the needles.
In doing so now after takeoff I reduce power to 1/2 to 3/4 throttle good speed for a 1/5scale Zaroli T-6 and engine starts to
miss fire and stumble, runs great at full throttle and idle but acts up in mid range only !
My carb settings have been set at 5 - turns H needle 4-1/2 L needle. It has run ok for 14 flights and on the last flight it began so I landed immediately and reset needles H to 4-1/2 and L to 5- turns no help. Did not get better.
So I went to on line forums and to Saito instructions On line, Horizon instructions on line, spoke to rep from Horizon
and have become dizzy with all the conflicting needle valve settings.
From factory settings of H-3 turns out L -4-1/2 turns out to engine forums saying H- 6 turns out and L 5-1/2 turns out.
My problem may not be related to carb needle settings but in my quest for a good setting for this engine I can't believe
that range of settings can be suitable ! Any thoughts or suggestions.
I have been an r-c flyer since 1978 I consider myself an advanced flyer and builder own G62's G38's DA85's and have flown In the past with Saito 91 four cycle engines all with no problems. While this 90cc engine has flown my T-6 without incident I can't seem to get a reliable transition.
Any help with reliable carb settings other than the mentioned setting ranging From H -,3 turns to H - 6 turns might help.
I am relying on what has been a good reliable carb setting. And why such a wide setting range from other sources.
Thanks Joe
#225
Hello all you fellow Saito Fg90r3. Help ! Help ! Help. I am a proud owner of this engine have about 15 flights on it now
love it but of lately needle valve issues are getting me frustrated. I broke it in as Saito recommended and it was running
great, although it always seemed to hesitate and stumble from idle to full throttle on takeoff so I decided to readjust
the needles.
In doing so now after takeoff I reduce power to 1/2 to 3/4 throttle good speed for a 1/5scale Zaroli T-6 and engine starts to
miss fire and stumble, runs great at full throttle and idle but acts up in mid range only !
My carb settings have been set at 5 - turns H needle 4-1/2 L needle. It has run ok for 14 flights and on the last flight it began so I landed immediately and reset needles H to 4-1/2 and L to 5- turns no help. Did not get better.
So I went to on line forums and to Saito instructions On line, Horizon instructions on line, spoke to rep from Horizon
and have become dizzy with all the conflicting needle valve settings.
From factory settings of H-3 turns out L -4-1/2 turns out to engine forums saying H- 6 turns out and L 5-1/2 turns out.
My problem may not be related to carb needle settings but in my quest for a good setting for this engine I can't believe
that range of settings can be suitable ! Any thoughts or suggestions.
I have been an r-c flyer since 1978 I consider myself an advanced flyer and builder own G62's G38's DA85's and have flown In the past with Saito 91 four cycle engines all with no problems. While this 90cc engine has flown my T-6 without incident I can't seem to get a reliable transition.
Any help with reliable carb settings other than the mentioned setting ranging From H -,3 turns to H - 6 turns might help.
I am relying on what has been a good reliable carb setting. And why such a wide setting range from other sources.
Thanks Joe
love it but of lately needle valve issues are getting me frustrated. I broke it in as Saito recommended and it was running
great, although it always seemed to hesitate and stumble from idle to full throttle on takeoff so I decided to readjust
the needles.
In doing so now after takeoff I reduce power to 1/2 to 3/4 throttle good speed for a 1/5scale Zaroli T-6 and engine starts to
miss fire and stumble, runs great at full throttle and idle but acts up in mid range only !
My carb settings have been set at 5 - turns H needle 4-1/2 L needle. It has run ok for 14 flights and on the last flight it began so I landed immediately and reset needles H to 4-1/2 and L to 5- turns no help. Did not get better.
So I went to on line forums and to Saito instructions On line, Horizon instructions on line, spoke to rep from Horizon
and have become dizzy with all the conflicting needle valve settings.
From factory settings of H-3 turns out L -4-1/2 turns out to engine forums saying H- 6 turns out and L 5-1/2 turns out.
My problem may not be related to carb needle settings but in my quest for a good setting for this engine I can't believe
that range of settings can be suitable ! Any thoughts or suggestions.
I have been an r-c flyer since 1978 I consider myself an advanced flyer and builder own G62's G38's DA85's and have flown In the past with Saito 91 four cycle engines all with no problems. While this 90cc engine has flown my T-6 without incident I can't seem to get a reliable transition.
Any help with reliable carb settings other than the mentioned setting ranging From H -,3 turns to H - 6 turns might help.
I am relying on what has been a good reliable carb setting. And why such a wide setting range from other sources.
Thanks Joe